Visit in Szczecin

23 October 2018

48-hours visit in Szczecin is a good starter, but definitely not enough to discover the whole city. So before you plan your next visit, see what can you do and see within two days.

Start your day with a good breakfast. Let it be Bananowa Szklarnia on the Fountains Avenue. It’s also highly recommended to have a nice cup of coffee in the morning. There is a company established in Szczecin – Korona, that burns coffee since 1912. You can drink it in a few places in the city. Marshal Food is one of them. It’s just 5 minutes on foot from the Fountains Avenue.

You are now in one of the places that’s one of the ‘living saloons’ in Szczecin. Some of them are probably still closed, as the are going to open in the afternoon. We may come back here later during the day.

Now let’s go to 20 Żołnierza Polskiego sq. And visit the Glass House – that’s Tourist Information Centre. There, you can buy the Szczecin Tourist Card that allows you to save money during your visit and you may also grab a map of the center of Szczecin with a few of the pre-made tourist routes for the selfsightseeing.

I suggest picking the red one, as it shows 44 of Szczecin’s highlights. All you have to do to explore it is following the line – it’s painted on the pavement all way long. Moreover, on each of those places you’ll find a panel with a full description of the place. This way of sightseeing is super easy.
Szczecin once was a capital city of it’s own duchy – Pomeranian Duchy. To discover it’s history, visit the Museum of the Regional Traditions. That’s the first street right counting from the Glass House. If it’s saturday, then you’re lucky – on each saturday all of branches of the National Museum are free of charge, so you’ll enter it without a ticket. If it’s the other day, then an adult ticket is 12 zloty.
If you follow the red line, then you are going to pass the Cathedral. Let’s enter it and go to the spire. There is a viewing terrace on 65 meters. An adult ticket costs 10 zloty.

Is it lunch time already? Luckily, there is a nice and cosy restaurant nearby – Mała Tumska on 26 Mariacka st. You may find a wide selection of tasty food there, but please consider ordering paprykarz szczeciński. It’s one of Szczecin’s specialities – a dish made of fish, rice, paprika, tomatoes and spices.
Allright, turn right after leaving the restaurant and cross the junction to reach the Museum of Upheavals on Solidarności sq. – it tells the story from the beginning of the 2-nd World War until the colapse of the communism. Besides, it’s one of the most important places in modern Szczecin, as the building gained the most prestigious awards, such as „World building of the year” (World Architecture Festival, Berlin 2016) or for „the best public space in Europe” (European Prize for Urban Public Space contest, Barcelona 2016).
Just across the street, there’s another important building – the Szczecin Philharmonic (with the Mies van der Rohe 2015 award for the best building in Europe). It looks pretty much like an iceberg mashed up with hanseatic tenement houses. You may enter it freely, there’s a cafe and a souvenir shop on the ground floor.

If you’d like now to take a look at Szczecin from above and see how much is there still to discover, keep going along the red line to enter Cafe 22 – that’s a cafe (obviously), but it’s on 22-nd floor. That allows you seeing the whole city at once. Order a coffee or some dessert, take a look at the city and decide, where to go next. Or follow my further suggestions.

My advice is to leave the tourist route for today. Let’s keep the rest for tomorrow. Do you see a huge park from the cafe? Well, it’s not actually a park. Let’s go there. Take a tram no. 10 on Plac Rodła and after 14 minutes leave it on „Cmentarz Centralny” tram stop. You can download „Jakdojade” app for Android and iOS to find out how to get around with public transport.
As the name of the stop says – it’s a cemetery. More precisely, the biggest cemetery in Poland and the 3-rd in Europe, as the area is 168 ha. We’re standing in front of the main gate. Let’s enter. There’s a wide lane in front of you and an arrow indicating direction on you left. Follow it to discover both of the tourist routes that are established on the cemetery: historical and botanical. Make yourself comfortable here, treat this area rather as a park, than a cemetery. There’s also a station of the city bike system, Bike-S. You may rent a bike to get around the cemetery, if you wish. Registration via their website takes approximately 60 seconds.
I hope you liked this unique botanic garden.

If I’m right, then it’s about dinner time. Let’s go back to the center. I suggerst taking tram no 10. And leaving the vehicle on „Plac Żołnierza Polskiego” tram stop. In the nearest area you’ll have many of nice restaurants to choose from, e.g. Spiżarnia Szczecińska (here) with the local cuisine or Jak Malina (here) with fully vegan menu.

After a meal, I suggest you to go once more to the area we’ve visited in the morning and have a nice coctail in one of the bars or pubs in the surroundings of Zamenhofa sq. As it’s been already said, that’s one of the partying spaces in Szczecin, so there’s plenty nice bars to go. For the instance, there’s a Tilt! pub in which you can play vintage arcade games as Mortal Combat or Metal Slug.
Or if you’re tired, let’s meet tomorrow morning.

Good morning! I hope there’s a Sun shining, because the second intensive day awaits us. Let’s go to the old town to have a breakfast. There’s a really nice bar, Bajgle Króla Jana on Nowy Rynek 6. You’ll love it. They have a wide selection of bagels, and really good coffee.

Did you know, that the Old Town isn’t really old? In fact, the oldest building on the Old Town has been built in 1996. It was bombed to the ground, so actually we’ve visited the true old city yesterday – that’s Szczecin as it used to look like over 100 years ago. But on the New Old Town there are also nice places to visit. Let’s take the museum of the history of Szczecin as an example.

Is it midday approaching? Let’s go to the main railway station, quickly! The biggest civil shelter in today’s Poland is right beneath it. They provide trips, but only once a day: at 12:00. Tickets are in sale directly on the place. The entrance is on platform 1 (unless there are some construction works – in that case look for a man in high-viz near escalator). A guided trip is going to take over 1 hour.

I bet you’re hungry after visiting the bunker. Taking tram no. 3 directly from the railway station is the quickest way to get to Plac Żołnierza Polskiego. From that point, there are only few steps to a really good fish restaurant – Rybarex.

Rybarex is a family restaurant, that being run by mother and daughter. Both are very positive and incredibly talented in cooking. And, according to the law, Szczecin really is located by the Sea, so it is indeed a good idea to have a fish, isn’t it?
After a good meal we should go visit the Castle of the Pomeranian Dukes. We may enter it freely, because tickets are required only when it comes to visiting galleries or viewing terrace. Speaking of terraces…

It’s the highest time to see the landmark of Szczecin. If it’s still afternoon, then we have good timing. Wały Chrobrego (Chrobry Embankment) is one of the most characteristic places in Szczecin. The catch is, that this is no embankment and Chrobry has never been here.

Original name of the place is Haken’s Terrace, as it has been built by Herman Haken’s initiative. But instead of describing Szczecin’s gratest mayor, I encourage you to enter the central building on the whole complex, that is the main building of National Museum. There’s a viewing terrace on the roof. Don’t hesitate to go there and you’ll appreciate the view of the harbour, shipyards, huge amount of space and one of the biggest lake in Poland.

Look at the river. There are ferries standing (Cpt. Cook, Dziewanna, Joanna, Odra Queen, Peene Queen). Consider taking a trip on one of them. They go frequently and tours last usually approximately 1 hour. Moreover, they are guided, so you can know what’s on your left or right.

Szczecin advertises itself as a Floating Garden. 25% of the city’s area is water and greenery is the next 20%. It’s the best way to see the city from the water side to admire the combination of these. But ferry is not the only possibility to do that – in Szczecin you’ll also find 4 motorboat and 3 kayak rentals. They require way more time, so I suggest you to rent them during your next visit, but they really allow you to discover and explore the Floating Garden. Belive me, it’s completely new level of relaxing and getting contact with nature.

I guess the end of the day is coming. Let’s spend it on the boulevards. Boulevards are always a good idea to go to. And that’s not without a reason. There are many nice restaurants, such as Ole! Bistro & Tapas, lots of event going on; there’s a beach with an opened bar, marina, three crane-o-sauruses… that’s really interesting and nice public space with a view, that always makes the “wow” effect.

Fancy a drink on the open air? In Poland it’s illegal, but cities can create zones, where people may drink alcohol freely on the street. In Szczecin that’s Bulwar Gdyński (Gdyński blvd.). You can tell which place exactly it is, because there’s a mast in the center of this area.

We haven’t seen all we could: Emerald Lake, Museum of the Technology and Transport, 7 Mills Valley; we didn’t jump from the highest platform in Europe, we didn’t visit the oldest cinema in the World, we didn’t have enoug time to kayak across the Lower Oder Landscape Park, we did not try Stettiner Pepperkoken. I hope we’ll make it during your next visit and we’ll find more time to see the surroundings as well. There’s plenty to do in Pomerania, so see you next time!

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